 |
There are some very good, realistic looking roofing materials available for scale model structures, but once in a while a project comes along
that just cries out for something special. Creating your own realistic looking shakes is not as difficult as you
might think, and the results are worth the effort.
"Barn Shakes" were a little thicker, and sometimes wavier version of hand-split shakes, and were often a
bit longer - 24" as opposed to 18", so you could get a little more coverage per square.
This tutorial will show you how to make authentic looking HO scale
barn shakes.
(Here is a link to a video on making Doll House shingles, which could be adapted to Garden Scale) |
Click here for
Plan - CNR 3rd Class Depot |
|
|
 |
- Start off with 0.020", (.5mm) veneer. The species is not critical, as any available wood grain veneer can
resemble natural cedar in one stage of aging. Weathering chemicals can be applied to
give the finished roof a weathered look.
- A standard paper
cutter will slice through the veneer quite easily. Cut the
veneer into page-size sheets with the 11" dimension with the
grain.
- Next, slice the sheets into random width strips, averaging around
3/32" in width.
|
|

|
- Lay out a sheet of black construction paper, using a sheet of wax paper
underneath to protect the surface of your workspace.
- Spread white glue evenly
over the construction paper, working about 3" at a time so the glue
doesn't set too soon.
- Lay the strips out side by side, pressing them into the glue.
- Try to maintain a parallel pattern, but don't worry about small
gaps between the strips. Small gaps will allow black to show through
and enhance the natural appearance of the shakes.
* You don't want the strips to be so tightly together that
they visibly blend in with each other. This would defeat the
purpose. |
|
 |
- Some of the strips may not be perfectly uniform/parallel.
If so, occasionally switch them end for end to balance and
correct the rows.
- With a damp/wet rag wipe lengthwise across the finished sheet, apply
firm pressure. This will help to wipe off any excess glue, as well as
flatten out the strips.
|
|
|
|
 |
- Lay a sheet of wax paper over top of the shakes and cover with as
much weight as necessary. The white glue bond is stronger when
clamped together. (Use at least one railroad
book!)
- Allow to dry overnight.
|
|
 |
- Once the sheet is thoroughly dry, cut across the grain into uniform
width strips approximately 1/4" wide, or 3/16" depending on how
much overlap you plan on using.
- 3/32" overlap will represent approx. 8" in HO scale, and
would be appropriate for houses. Barns and industrial buildings
could get away with a bit more.
|
|
 |
- The strips may have a tendency to curve as the glue dries. To
straighten them out, and also to create a small gap between the
shakes for appearance, lay them out flat and slightly reverse the
curve with even finger pressure across the strip.
- Trim each strip to length, and trim corners if necessary and test
fit before applying glue.
|
|
 |
- Using white glue or a glue stick, (not
the purple school-type), apply glue evenly to the back of the strips
and press them into place. (Stainable wood glue is even better).
- Drawing a series of parallel lines on each roof surface will help
to maintain even rows. (On 1:1 scale houses roofers often snap
chalk-lines). Make any necessary corrections as you get closer to
the ridge.
- Use super glue in a few spots to hold things in place
|
|
|
|
 |
- Continue gluing strips in place. On a hip roof make sure adjacent
rows match. You should have the same number of rows on each side.
- Before installing the caps run a file board over the roof
intersections. File down any high spots that might keep the
caps from seating properly.
|
|
 |
- You can make a sanding board by gluing sandpaper onto a
strip of wood. To allow sanding of inside corners wrap the
sandpaper slightly over one edge, and trim flush on the other.
|
|
 |
- Gable ends should be sanded to a uniform overhang.
- Spread a little extra super glue to the underside of the
eave before sanding to prevent the end shakes from splitting off.
|
|
 |
Caps:
- Cut several uniform strips of veneer across the grain.
- Use a natural tone of construction paper. This time, overlap
the strips instead of laying them out side by side. Glue the
strips to paper, using the same amount of overlap as you did
when applying the shake strips to the roof.
- For added strength spread glue to reverse side of each
strip.
|
|
 |
- Prepare a section slightly longer that the longest length of
roof cap that you will need.
- Lay wax paper over the sheet and allow to set up for a few
hours under a stack of books or other weight.
|
|
 |
- Cut strips approximately 3/32" wide as shown. 3/32"
scales to approx. 8" in HO, which is on the large side for roof
caps, but narrower strips tend to become more difficult to
handle.
|
|
|
|
 |
- Before cutting strips from the main piece, sand a beveled
edge on each side (see inset).
- Cut a strip off each side so that you end up with two
beveled mating surfaces.
|
|
 |
- To make the small pieces easier to handle, fix the two ends
of the roof caps together with super glue.
|
|
 |
- Set the roof cap in place on the roof to establish the
proper angle and fit.
- Glue with super glue every 1/2" or so to maintain the shape.
|
|
 |
- With the roof cap turned upside down run a bead of glue
evenly in the channel, and press and hold in place.
- Use a drop of super glue or masking tape to hold in place
while glue sets.
|
|

|
- The last pieces in place are the roof caps. Roof caps
typically start at the outside edges and work toward the middle
of the roof
This is the Pettigrew Schoolhouse in Madison County, Arkansas.
Once considered the "Hardware Capital of the World", Pettigrew
became another sad railroad casualty story. Plans and details of the
story available in April 2011.
Purchase this plan in N, HO, OO, or O Scales |
of N Scale and HO Scale plans, templates, and Cardstock patterns,
then click to order the printable PDF files so you can get started on your next project.
|
|
Disclaimer:
Information provided in these tutorials is for
informational purposes only. Owners of this website offer no
guarantees and assume no responsibility or liability of any type
with respect to the content of these tutorials and will not be
held liable for any damages or injuries caused by using or
misusing the information on this site, and anyone using these
methods does so at his/her own risk. By viewing these articles
you agree that you will not hold, or seek to hold, Owners of
this site responsible or liable with respect to the content of
this site. Processes illustrated on this website should not be
undertaken without a complete understanding and knowledge of the
safe and proper use of all related tools and processes. |
|
Return to Links Page |
Back to Top |